Today is day one in Paris. I rode the TGV (ultrafast train) to Paris from Geneva with Monica. On board the busy train, we met a nice French guy named Thiboult on his was to get his visa to the US to study in Kentucky for college. We chatted him up about France and America. He told us that today, July 14th, is a French national holiday. What luck? Turns out that this day marks the starting of the French Revolution in 1789. A riotous crowd broke into the Invalides house (a military building), stole over 20,000 rifles, and then proceeded to tear down the infamous Bastille prison.
Marking this occasion, Paris has a military parade every year, and we also heard rumors of a firework show near the Eiffel Tower. So once we got into town, we quickly checked into the hostel. My first encounter with a Parisian involved him flipping me off. We found out hostel with the help of Thiboult, and explored the area before stolling down the Seine river that cuts Paris in half. Nearby our hostel were: two porn shops, more hotels, an internet cafe, and a delicious smelling kebab shop.
The walk down the Seine was scenic. The river was cluttered with tourist boats. A couple of friendly French guys yelled, “Jackie Chan, Jackie Chan!” at me and I obliged them with a kung-fu stance. The shore was full of Parisians and tourists alike, enjoying wine, bread, and music. I bought a sandwich with chicken and toomatoes in a baguette.
We passed Notre Dame, the Louvre, and Invalides, and marveled at the immensity and amazing design of the famous buildings. As we neared teh Eiffel, more and more overpriced food and ice cream shopes attracted the stomachs and wallets of tourists. The streets were becoming more and more clogged with foot traffic, and people were camped out on bridges. Little did we know that today was a very special day for the French.
We inched closer to the Eiffel, passing a police checkpoint and more food stands. Slowly, the crowd became a hot, sticky mass of people that was almost at a standstill. The Eiffel was literally 200 ft away at this point. WE say on the ground, marveling at the ‘metal asparagus’ and waited for the night to fall.
We weren’t sure when the fireworks were going to start, but the 100,000s of people were a sign of something big. After waiting for almost two hours, we just about gave up and were about to go home. We were pushing back through the throng of people away from the Eiffel Tower, when suddenly, across the Seine, a light and music show started. The Eiffel Tower, normally illuminated, went dark. And the most amazing fireworks show I have ever seen started.
It put our 4th of July celebrations to utter shame. The sheer size and coordination of the show was beyond awe. A live orchestra and opera singers performed famous classical pieces of music, and fireworks exploded in synchronized beat. And just as we thought the show was over, the fireworks and music would start again, doing more complicated coordination than before. The complexity and precision of the fireworks were spectacular.
The show went for about 25 minutes, and then the band played Nessun Dorma. The power of the music and combined fireworks brought tears to my eyes.